Kerlingarfjöll by Camper Van: Driving the F35 to Iceland’s Hveradalir Geothermal Valley
Kerlingarfjöll sits deep in Iceland’s central Highlands, and getting there means traversing an F-road most visitors never touch. If you’re wondering whether your rental can make the trip, the short answer is: only if it’s a certain 4×4.
That single requirement filters out many rental cars in Iceland, but it also means Kerlingarfjöll stays quiet compared to the Golden Circle or even Landmannalaugar. For camper van travelers who want the Highlands without the crowds, that trade is worth understanding before you plan the route.
We’ve put together this guide for exactly that — what the drive actually involves, which 4×4 camper vans can handle it, and what you’ll find once you arrive.
Where is Kerlingarfjöll and why do camper van travelers go there?
Kerlingarfjöll is a rhyolite mountain range in the central Highlands, formed by volcanic activity around 10,000 years ago. The mountains shift color through the day — rust to ochre to pale green — as steam rises off the geothermal ground beneath them. It’s often compared to Landmannalaugar in the south, and the resemblance is real: both are rhyolite ranges with hot springs and hiking trails cut through orange and red slopes.
The difference is traffic. Landmannalaugar sees far more day-trippers and tour buses. Kerlingarfjöll, sitting further north along the F35, gets a fraction of the visitors, even though the landscape and the hiking are just as striking.
Since 2017, most of the area has been a protected nature reserve, which means the trails are marked and maintained, but the ground itself is fragile. That matters more here than in most of Iceland — but more on that when we get to Hveradalir.
Driving the F35 (Kjölur route) in a camper van
The F35, also called Kjalvegur or the Kjölur route, is one of only two roads that cross the Icelandic Highlands from north to south. It runs about 104 miles (168 km) total, from Gullfoss in the south up through the high, open Kjölur plateau — sitting around 600–700 meters between the glaciers Langjökull and Hofsjökull — before ascending to a junction near Blönduós in the north. Kerlingarfjöll sits off this route, roughly 43 miles (70 km) north of Gullfoss.
From Reykjavík, plan on 3 to 4 hours of driving to reach Kerlingarfjöll. If you’re starting from Gullfoss, it’s closer to an hour and a half.
The road itself is unpaved gravel, and drivers who’ve done it describe the surface as rougher in places but not technically difficult for a 4×4 — the biggest advantage of the F35 over some other F-roads is that its river crossings are bridged, so you’re not fording open water in a rental vehicle. Expect one-lane bridges and long stretches where you won’t pass another car. For the full breakdown of the F35 as a north-south crossing — including the Hveravellir stop further along the route and multi-day itinerary options — see our guide to driving the Highlands.
F-roads like the F35 typically open in mid-to-late June and close in early September, once the first snow arrives, but this shifts year to year depending on conditions. Check umferdin.is before you leave — don’t rely on last year’s dates. You can also learn more in our guide to F-road opening dates.
There’s no fuel available on the F35 itself. Fill up before you turn off Route 1 or leave the Golden Circle, and don’t count on the resort’s pump as a backup.
Do you need a 4×4 to drive to Kerlingarfjöll?
Yes. The F35 is an F-road, and Icelandic law requires four-wheel drive for every F-road in the country — there’s no exception for Kerlingarfjöll. A standard 2WD camper van isn’t permitted on this route, regardless of how capable it might feel on paper.
This is one of the clearest cases in Iceland where the vehicle you book determines the trip you can take. If Kerlingarfjöll, Landmannalaugar, or any other Highland stop is on your list, you’re choosing from our 4×4 camper vans from the start, not deciding later.
Our fleet includes a selection of 4×4 vehicles suitable for exploring F-road 35, including:
Dacia Duster 4×4 Roof Top Tent
Planning a Highland route? Compare our 4×4 camper vans and see which model fits your group and your route.
If you want the fuller breakdown of why 2WD and 4×4 aren’t interchangeable in the Highlands, our 4×4 vs 2WD comparison walks through it in more detail — ground clearance, river crossings, and where each vehicle type is actually legal to drive.
Hiking Hveradalir geothermal area
Hveradalir is the reason most people make the drive. It’s Iceland’s third-largest geothermal area, and the landscape looks like nowhere else in the country — steam vents, bubbling mud pools, and mineral-streaked ground in shades of orange, yellow, and green, all set against snow patches that linger into summer.
You can reach it two ways. The hike from the Highland Base resort covers roughly 7 miles (11.5 km) round trip and takes 4 to 5 hours at a moderate pace, climbing and descending through the mountains before dropping into the geothermal valley itself. If you’d rather skip the long approach, you can drive the short gravel stretch from the resort — about 1.9 to 2.5 miles (3 to 4 km) — to a car park, then walk down into the valley from there. Either way, budget 2 to 3 hours once you’re actually in Hveradalir; the trail network covers about 1.9 miles (3 km) and most people want time to explore properly.
Because the area has been a protected nature reserve since 2017, staying on the marked trails isn’t optional. The clay soil is fragile enough that footprints off-trail can last for years, and parts of the ground are genuinely unstable near active vents. Treat any steaming or bubbling ground as off-limits unless the trail runs right through it.
Where to camp at Kerlingarfjöll
The Highland Base resort is the only real base for this area, and it covers a range of budgets — a hotel, huts, and a campsite, all with access to showers, a kitchen, and an on-site restaurant.
For camper van travelers, the campsite is the natural fit, especially if you’re driving one of our 4×4 models with a rooftop tent. You get a legal, serviced place to park and sleep after a day on the F35, without needing to book a hut months in advance the way hikers often do.
One perk of staying near the resort that doesn’t show up in most guides: there’s a free hot spring within walking distance. One Rent.is traveler who visited on a Highland road trip described it like this:
“If you walk from the resort hotel to the left, there is a beautiful trail with blue water dripping over orange stones. If you get to the end of it, you will be surprised by a lovely hot spring… Worth it!”
It’s a short, well-marked walk from the resort, and it’s a good way to close out a day that started with several hours on gravel.
Day trip or overnight — planning your Highland stop
If Hveradalir is the only thing on your list, you can treat Kerlingarfjöll as a long day trip from the Golden Circle — drive up the F35, hike or drive into Hveradalir, and head back the same day. It’s a full day, but manageable if you start early.
Staying overnight buys you flexibility. Weather in the Highlands changes fast, and a second day gives you a buffer if your first day is overcast or windy. It also opens up the rest of the F35: if you continue north, you’ll come out near the Ring Road, which makes Kerlingarfjöll a genuine crossing point rather than a there-and-back detour.
That’s the same logic that applies to driving the Highlands more broadly, and to nearby stops like Þórsmörk if you’re building a longer Highland-focused route.
CTA: Ready to plan the rest of your Highland route? Read our full guide to driving the Highlands before you finalize your itinerary.
FAQs
Is Kerlingarfjöll worth the detour from the Golden Circle?
If you have a 4×4 and a spare day or two, yes. The geothermal landscape at Hveradalir doesn’t look like anything else on the standard Golden Circle route, and the area sees far fewer visitors than better-known Highland stops.
Are there fuel stations on the F35?
No. Fill your tank before you leave Route 1 or the Golden Circle. There’s a fuel pump at the Highland Base resort, but don’t plan your trip around it as a reliable backup.
Can I combine Kerlingarfjöll with Landmannalaugar in one trip?
Yes, if you have enough days and your vehicle is rated for the connecting F-roads — both are accessible from the F35 corridor with planning. We’re publishing a dedicated Landmannalaugar guide soon with the full route breakdown.
What should I pack for a Highland camper van trip like this?
Layers, even in summer — temperatures at altitude drop fast, and mornings at the resort can be genuinely cold. Sturdy hiking shoes for the Hveradalir trails, a full tank of gas, and a physical or offline map as backup, since mobile signal is unreliable once you’re off Route 1.
Can I visit Kerlingarfjöll in winter?
Not by camper van. The F35 closes once the first snow arrives, typically by early September, and doesn’t reopen until the following summer. The Highland Base resort itself stays open year-round, but winter access is by snowmobile or guided super jeep tour, not self-drive.
What does Hveradalir mean?
It translates to “Valley of Hot Springs” — an accurate description of the steam vents, mud pools, and thermal features that fill the valley floor.