by Sigert
There’s a moment on every great road trip when you realise you’re no longer just travelling. You’re committed. Mine arrived 200 kilometres into a 5,100‑kilometre loop around the country, three and a half weeks with a rooftop tent in Iceland. That was when the Jeep Compass 4xe Trailhawk politely lit up its low‑fuel warning like a Christmas tree.
I was in the middle of nowhere. Not the “quiet countryside” kind of nowhere, but the Icelandic kind: the “if you break down, a puffin will be the first responder” kind.
I pulled over and checked the map. As it turned out, the nearest petrol station was 30 kilometres in the wrong direction. So, on day one, I began my Icelandic adventure by driving backwards.
But let’s rewind.
The Upgrade That Set the Tone
My reservation said Jeep Renegade. Instead, Campervan Iceland and Rent.is handed me the keys to a Jeep Compass 4xe Trailhawk. That’s the rental‑car equivalent of being upgraded from economy to business class without asking. It looked better and felt better. Crucially, it also made me feel like I could conquer Iceland’s famously dramatic terrain.
Inside, the Compass was unexpectedly luxurious. Leather seats and fancy screens made even the longest stretches of gravel feel civilised. Paired with the hybrid system, the 1.3‑litre engine also delivered more punch than expected. You just had to rev it like you were trying to summon Thor.
Yes, the 35‑litre tank meant fuel stops were a daily ritual. But in Iceland, planning fuel is part of the adventure. It’s like plotting Viking raids: strategic, essential and occasionally requiring a detour.
The F‑Road Revelation
A few days into the trip, I found myself on the F249 toward Þórsmörk. In front of me was a sign that read: “4×4 XL vehicles only.”
I looked at the Compass. The Compass looked at me. Neither of us knew what “XL” meant. I Googled it and became more confused. So I did the only sensible thing: I drove on.
The Compass crossed shallow rivers and crawled over rocky patches. In fact, it handled the entire road with the calm confidence of a seasoned Icelandic local. At the end, we were surrounded by enormous modified trucks that looked like they could drive through a glacier. That’s when I realised something important: the Compass Trailhawk is far more capable than people give it credit for.
Throughout the trip, we saw warnings that extreme 4×4 vehicles were required. Even so, every F‑road we attempted was perfectly manageable. Iceland seems to keep roads closed until they are passable, and when they open, the Compass is ready.
(A word of caution from the Rent.is team: river levels change fast with rain and glacier melt. The deeper crossings on the road into Þórsmörk are best left to large vehicles. Water damage from river crossings is usually not covered by rental insurance, so check your rental terms. Also check Umferdin.is and Safetravel.is before any F‑road. When in doubt, don’t cross.)
Fuel Challenges on the Way to Landmannalaugar
Heading toward Landmannalaugar from the north, we filled up at the last ÓB station. Right after it, a sign warned: no petrol stations for the next 243 km.
Given the Compass’s real‑world range on F‑roads, this was less a warning and more a challenge. The F208 was closed south of Landmannalaugar. However, even if it had been open, we might not have made it across without extra fuel. But that’s Iceland: the landscape decides your itinerary, and you adapt. And honestly, adapting is half the fun.
Sleeping in a Rooftop Tent in Iceland: A Bedroom With a View
Rent.is equipped our Compass with an Autohome rooftop tent, which became our home for 25 nights. It was our first time using one, and the convenience was unbeatable. You park and pop it open. Suddenly, you have a bedroom overlooking glaciers, fjords, mountains or steaming geothermal fields.
On calm nights, it was magical. On windy nights, it was… Icelandic. At night, temperatures hovered around 3–4°C, so my girlfriend was cold every night. As a result, I became her designated human heater. The sleeping bags were rated for 0°C, which is adorable, because Iceland does not care about ratings.
Then came the condensation. Every gust of wind shook droplets loose from the tent ceiling. They sprinkled our faces like a passive‑aggressive rain shower. We were very lucky with the weather and saw only sunshine for half a week. Still, the weather could shift quickly, and after a few wet days, the mattress was soaked.
The tent’s tub‑like bottom trapped water underneath. Because of that, the mattress soaked up moisture again every time we put it back, even after drying it in the sun. And yet, every morning we woke up to a new breathtaking view. Every single one made the occasional soggy night worth it.
The Daily Icelandic Ritual
We brought our own coffee filter holder, because civilisation begins with caffeine. Most campsites had hot water, sometimes so hot it nearly boiled, so we didn’t always need the gas stove. Only three mornings were too windy to brew coffee. Iceland tried to stop us. Iceland failed.
Lunch often meant stopping at a viewpoint and staying inside the car. Then my girlfriend, nimble, flexible and braver than I am, would climb from the front seat into the back. From there, she retrieved bread, toppings, plates and cutlery.
The cooler lived behind the driver’s seat. Meanwhile, the ladder lived in the boot and on one rear seat, taking up half the space in the back. Everything else lived wherever it fit. For places to stop each night, see our guide to campsites in Iceland.
The Journey: A 5,100‑Kilometre Highlight Reel
Trying to list the highlights is impossible. Still, here are a few that defined the trip:
- Diamond Beach and the glacier lagoon: we paddled a kayak through the lagoon, weaving between icebergs. Meanwhile, seals lounged on floating chunks of ice like aristocrats. Read more about Iceland’s black sand beaches.
- Kirkjufell: it looks exactly like the mountain you’d draw as a child if you were exceptionally talented. The views are stunning, too, if you can make the short but steep hike to the top.
- Geothermal fields: steam rises from the earth and boiling water bubbles from cracks in the ground. It’s a reminder that Iceland is still being cooked.
- Puffins: thousands of them, at Látrabjarg and Hafnarhólmi. Seeing so many at once is pure joy.
- An arctic fox: my girlfriend spotted it on a random hike. Unfortunately, I was too slow to see it.
And then there were the quiet places. I won’t name them, so they can remain quiet. There, the landscapes were so astonishing and so empty that they felt like secrets. If you want to find your own, start with our list of hidden gems of Iceland.
Mechanical Quirks and Human Errors
The Compass’s lane‑assist feature deserves an award for enthusiasm. It beeped whenever it imagined a lane, even on gravel roads where lanes do not exist. Thankfully, there’s a physical button to turn it off.
Similarly, the speed‑limit recognition was rather creative. Occasionally, it swapped the limits for gravel and paved roads, like a mischievous child rearranging fridge magnets.
As for human mishaps, we didn’t always check road closures properly. That led to extra kilometres and mild disappointment. Even in early July, many F‑roads remain closed, and Iceland does not negotiate.
Customer Service: The Unsung Hero
Both Campervan Iceland and Rent.is were exceptional throughout the trip. They were responsive, friendly and helpful. It’s the kind of customer service that makes you feel supported, even when you’re 200 kilometres from civilisation.
If I did this trip again with my girlfriend, I’d probably choose a camper with a bed inside, like the Marco Polo, for extra comfort. On the other hand, if I went alone or with friends who don’t feel the cold so quickly, I’d certainly consider the Compass Trailhawk again.
In the End: Why a Rooftop Tent in Iceland Was Worth It
Three and a half weeks. 5,100 kilometres. A soaked mattress, a thirsty Jeep, thousands of puffins and one arctic fox. And through all of it, a Jeep with a rooftop tent was our home.
It was among the greatest road trips of our lives. The Compass Trailhawk, the rooftop tent, Campervan Iceland and Rent.is made it possible.
FAQ: Travelling With a Rooftop Tent in Iceland
Is a rooftop tent in Iceland warm enough at night?
In summer, night temperatures are often only a few degrees above zero, and colder in the Highlands. So bring a sleeping bag rated below 0°C, or add a liner and a blanket. Wool layers and a hat also help. Check the forecast on the Icelandic Met Office website, and park sheltered from the wind when you can.
Can you drive F‑roads with a rooftop tent car like the Jeep Compass?
F‑roads are only open to 4×4 vehicles, and most open between late June and July. A 4×4 like the Jeep Renegade or Compass handles many of them well. However, some routes have deep, unbridged rivers that are best left to large vehicles. Always check road status on Umferdin.is and the river crossing rules in your rental terms.
How far apart are petrol stations in Iceland?
Along the Ring Road, you are rarely more than an hour from fuel. In the Highlands, though, there can be more than 200 km without a station. Fill up whenever you can, and bring a payment card with a PIN, as most pumps are self‑service.
How do you deal with condensation in a rooftop tent in Iceland?
Keep the vents slightly open, even on cold nights, and keep wet clothes and shoes out of the tent. On dry, sunny days, air out the mattress and bedding. Also, wipe the inside of the tent ceiling in the morning before folding it away.
Plan Your Own Rooftop Tent Trip in Iceland
Rent.is has a range of 4×4 cars with rooftop tents, including the Jeep Renegade 4xe. They can take you around the Ring Road, into the Westfjords and up into the Highlands in summer. Pick yours up just five minutes from Keflavík Airport, with free 24/7 shuttle service.
