by Martina
When we landed in Iceland, the wind greeted us like an overexcited host who had waited all winter for new guests. It slapped our jackets, tugged at our backpacks and made it immediately clear that in Iceland, the weather is not a background element. It’s a main character. We looked at each other with the naïve confidence of travellers who believe they’re ready for anything. Spoiler: we weren’t.
Our Plan: The Highlands and a Westfjords Road Trip
Our plan was bold: eight days through the inland Highlands and the Westfjords in a VW California 4×4 camper, chasing gravel roads, waterfalls, mountains and whatever the sky decided to throw at us. Mostly that was wind, rain and the occasional ray of sun that felt like a blessing. This is our WestfHighlandsjords road trip, day by day.
Day 1: Baptism by Wind
Leaving Reykjavík felt like stepping into a different world. The landscape widened, stretched and opened up: lava fields, distant mountains and clouds racing overhead as if they had somewhere urgent to be. Every now and then, a sudden beam of sunlight pierced the grey sky and lit up a random mountain, as if nature were showing off.
The wind, however, was not impressed by our enthusiasm. When I opened the car door, it yanked it wide open with the strength of someone checking whether we had snacks inside. From that moment on, we learned to open doors with the caution of bomb technicians.
Day 2: The Gravel Road Philosophy
The interior welcomed us with roads that were more suggestion than infrastructure. Our VW California bounced like a caffeinated pony over stones, dips and ridges. Every bump was a reminder that comfort is overrated. Every curve forced us to slow down and admire the vastness around us.
Black deserts of volcanic sand stretched endlessly. Mountains rose like ancient guardians. The sky changed mood every five minutes. It was impossible not to feel tiny, and strangely free.
Day 3: Waterfalls Everywhere
On day three, waterfalls became our constant companions. In Iceland, you don’t search for waterfalls; they ambush you. Big ones, thin ones, roaring ones, shy ones. We started naming the unnamed ones: “Surprise Falls”, “Are You Kidding Me Falls”, “Another One Falls”.
Approaching one particularly powerful waterfall, the wind decided to baptise us with a full spray of icy water. We laughed, soaked and shivering, because resisting Iceland is pointless. You just let it happen.
Day 4: Seven Minutes of Sun
The fourth day gifted us a miracle: seven minutes of sunshine. We shouted “THE SUN!” as if we had spotted a rare animal. In those minutes, the mountains glowed gold, the fjords sparkled, and even the wind seemed to pause respectfully.
Then the rain returned. But we didn’t mind. We had seen the sun, and that was enough to keep us warm for the rest of the day. Emotionally, at least.
Day 5: Our Westfjords Road Trip Begins
Reaching the Westfjords felt like crossing into a secret kingdom. The roads climbed steep cliffs, curled around deep fjords and revealed views that looked painted rather than real. The rain fell diagonally, the wind blew horizontally, and we walked vertically. Somehow.
Tiny villages appeared like colourful dots in a sea of rock and water. Each house seemed to say, “Yes, I live here. And yes, I’m fine with the weather.”
Day 6: Fog, Gravel and Puffins
Our mission for day six was clear: reach the cliff where the puffins live. The map showed a gravel road. The sky showed fog. Thick, dense, impenetrable fog.
Driving felt like navigating inside a cotton ball. We could see only the bonnet of the car and a vague outline of the road. The GPS, usually so confident, began to sound hesitant: “Turn… maybe?”
The road climbed. The fog thickened. The world disappeared. And then, suddenly, the cliff emerged from the white void.
And there they were: puffins. Small, round, elegant in their clumsy way. Their colourful beaks stood out even in the fog. They looked at us with calm curiosity, as if we were the ones out of place. We approached slowly, took photos and watched them dive off the cliff with fearless grace. (A word of caution: bird cliff edges can be undercut and crumbly, so stay well back from the edge, especially in fog.)
The fog, the silence, the puffins: it felt like a dream suspended between sea and sky.
Day 7: The Endless Road
Day seven was dedicated to a road that seemed to stretch into eternity. Gravel, curves, mountains, plains, fjords: an endless sequence of landscapes. We passed sheep that stared at us with philosophical intensity. Icelandic sheep always look as if they know something you don’t.
The road felt like a meditation. No rush, no noise, just the rhythm of tyres on gravel and the constant presence of the wind.
Day 8: Farewell, Iceland
The last day arrived too soon. Driving back toward Reykjavík, the landscape seemed to offer a final performance: a waterfall lit by a stray sunbeam, a mountain wrapped in clouds, a fjord reflecting the sky like polished glass.
The wind softened, almost gentle. Maybe it knew we were leaving. Or maybe it had already found new travellers to challenge.
As the plane took off, Iceland shrank beneath us. And we realised something simple and true: Iceland isn’t a place you visit. It’s a place that stays with you.
FAQ: Planning a Westfjords Road Trip
Do you need a 4×4 for the Highlands and the Westfjords?
For the Highlands, yes. F-roads are only open to 4×4 vehicles, usually from late June or July. Most main roads in the Westfjords can be driven in a regular camper in summer, but there are long gravel stretches, and a 4×4 like the VW California makes them more comfortable. Check Umferdin.is for road status, and see our guide to campsites in Iceland for places to stay along the way.
Where can you see puffins on a Westfjords road trip?
The best-known spot is Látrabjarg, Europe’s largest bird cliff, at the end of a gravel road in the far west. Puffins nest there from around May to August. Stay well back from the cliff edge.
How do you handle strong wind in Iceland?
Park facing into the wind when you can, and hold the door firmly with both hands when opening it. Check the wind forecast on the Icelandic Met Office website and Safetravel.is before longer drives.
Plan Your Own Westfjords Road Trip
Rent.is has a range of 4×4 campers, including the VW California, that can take you into the Highlands in summer and along the gravel roads of the Westfjords. Pick yours up just five minutes from Keflavík Airport, with free 24/7 shuttle service.
