by Kimberly
Our camper van adventure through Iceland offered us the full range of Mother Nature’s majesty. There were rain-fortified waterfall blasts and wind so dense that birds hovered in place like hummingbirds. Then came a soul-nourishingly beautiful double rainbow. Everyone on that stretch of road pulled over to ooh and ahh in concert. Indeed, it was a moment of shared humanity. This is our story of eight days in Iceland with toddlers, and the hike that made it all worthwhile.
Our Daughter’s Longest Hike: Arnarstapi to Hellnar
We couldn’t have asked for more gorgeous conditions for our family hike along the coast from Arnarstapi to Hellnar. It was a crisp, clear, sunny 4 July, day seven of our journey with two toddlers in tow. It was also the 250th anniversary of America’s Declaration of Independence. On that day, our family celebrated our very own milestone: our daughter’s longest-ever hike!
At first glance, a 2.5 km hike might not seem particularly noteworthy. However, our older daughter, C, has an extremely rare neurological genetic syndrome. There was a time we didn’t know if she would even learn to walk. So watching her lead the way was one of the most unexpected gifts Iceland gave our family. She ambled up uneven rocks and then blew wishes on dandelions along the trail. Meanwhile, she sang “Following the leader, the leader, the leader!” with her baby sister, her constant companion, right behind her.
We still remember being the couple who spent our honeymoon backpacking through Patagonia. I wore one pair of trousers for nine days, choosing adventure over any semblance of newlywed allure. Iceland proved that although our life was different now, we didn’t have to give up adventure.
Why We Chose a Camper Van for Iceland with Toddlers
Getting to that hike, though, is really a story about the van.
Back home in San Francisco, we got tied down in the logistics of work and childcare. Suddenly we were one month out from our Iceland trip. Worse still, our poorly timed procrastination had left us with fully booked guesthouses and hotels all along our planned route. So, with a mixture of excitement and abject trepidation, we made a new plan. To the disbelief of our friends and family, we would rent a VW California Beach camper van. Then we would strap our two- and four-year-old daughters into their car seats and hit the open roads of Iceland.
Toddler O’Clock: Bedtime in a Pop-Top Camper
Did we really choose this plan? That thought crossed our minds many times during moments of peak toddler anarchy. Still, the pop-up roof bed let us tuck the girls in early. First, though, we had to adjust to the surreal, never-dark nights of July in Iceland. Afterwards, we would curl up side by side in our twin sleeping bags to read by lamplight. Above all, we stuck to a strict family bedtime of “toddler o’clock”. We also learned quickly that opening the van doors after the girls’ lights-out would most certainly awaken our two Krakens.
The Rhythm of Camper Van Life with Two Toddlers
Camper van life had its own rhythm and, surprisingly, we adjusted to it easily. Sometimes it meant pulling over so our potty-training youngest could use her portable toilet, while Icelandic horses peered on curiously. Often we ate kid-approved sandwiches again, made with cold cuts from the local Bónus. That way, we could stick to our itinerary without losing an afternoon to a sit-down meal. And every day, we packed and repacked eight days of gear and two small humans into one space, Tetris-style. Somehow, we didn’t mind.
So yes, we voluntarily spent eight days, 24/7, eating, sleeping and driving with two toddlers in a van!
Was It Worth It?
Without a moment’s doubt. Being immersed in the otherworldly beauty of Iceland was a gift in itself. We were finally untethered from emails, Slack notifications and Teams chats. In fact, I turned off my mobile data and powered down my phone for the entire trip. Oh, the bliss and liberation!
Glaciers. Volcanic rocks. Secret geothermal lagoons. Craters. Waterfalls around every other bend. The occasional black sheep hiding in plain sight among a sea of white ones. A dining table inside a cave, lit by tea lights. Puffins, which I can confirm are every bit as adorable as in photos, though much smaller than I imagined. Basalt columns stretching into cloudless blue skies. Overall, it was scenery that makes you want to dig out an old journal and take up writing again.
Our VW California Beach from Rent.is
The van itself also deserves its own credit. We fully expected a steep learning curve. Instead, the California Beach and the whole rental experience with Rent.is were completely seamless and intuitive. Truly, no notes. In fact, it handled the Ring Road, the gravel detour to gorgeous Þakgil and our particular brand of chaos without complaint.
A word to the wise: watch where you park near the Reykjavík bus station. Otherwise, you may earn your very own souvenir parking ticket within fifteen minutes of driving your new camper van. Whoops.
Tips for a Camper Van Trip to Iceland with Toddlers
What tips would we offer anyone thinking about a camper van adventure in Iceland? Don’t hesitate. It’s absolutely the best way to experience this rich and varied landscape. In hindsight, I might even say it’s the only way. Plus, it’s completely doable without kids (easily) or with them. You just need gumption and a willingness to let go of the small things. Beyond that:
- Pack layers and a warm hat. Otherwise, half your photos will show you looking like a dweeb in a rain hood.
- Quick-dry towels are your friend.
- Don’t waste mental energy worrying about campsite reservations. We never came close to an issue, despite travelling in peak season in July.
- Wear grippy shoes that can get wet. That way, you can enjoy the trails around the many waterfalls.
- Don’t sleep on the petrol station hot dogs! Food prices in Iceland gave us sticker shock. However, an Orkan hot dog with all the trimmings might just hit the spot when you’re tired and hungry.
- Try our favourite campsites: Þakgil and Skaftafell were top of our list of the eight we stayed at. As a general rule, we prioritise gorgeous, unique locations over amenities. See our guide to campsites in Iceland for more.
- Let the van set your pace. Some of our best moments happened because we were already moving and could simply pull over and savour the moment.
Adventurers at Heart
Eight days in that van with our girls gave us something we didn’t dare hope for a few years ago. First, proof that double-rainbow-framed skies are the limit for our sweet C. Second, a reminder that the right van, on the right road, can show our family we’re still adventurers at heart.
Kim and Alex Kaz, California, USA
FAQ: Visiting Iceland with Toddlers
Is a camper van a good way to see Iceland with toddlers?
For many families, yes. You can stop whenever the kids need a break and keep naps on schedule. Plus, all their gear travels with you. A van with a pop-up roof bed, like the VW California Beach, gives the children their own sleeping space. Bring car seats suited to your children’s ages and sizes.
Do you need to book campsites in July?
Most campsites in Iceland work on a first-come, first-served basis. Even in peak season, we never had trouble finding space. Overnight stays are only allowed at registered campsites.
How long is the Arnarstapi to Hellnar hike?
The coastal path between Arnarstapi and Hellnar on Snæfellsnes is about 2.5 km each way. It’s mostly easy, although some sections are rocky and uneven. It’s a lovely walk for families, with sea arches, birdlife and a café at Hellnar.
Plan Your Own Trip to Iceland with Toddlers
The VW California Beach is an automatic camper for a small family. It has a pop-up roof bed upstairs and a fold-out bed below. Pick it up from Rent.is, just five minutes from Keflavík Airport, with free 24/7 shuttle service. Before you go, check road conditions and the weather on Safetravel.is.
