by Ayla
Last autumn, my friend said something that sounded strangely familiar. “My family always has ideas for my birthday,” she laughed, “but what about what I want?”
Her answer was “Iceland!” It had been patiently waiting on both our bucket lists for years. This is the story of our birthday trip to Iceland in June: two friends, one little camper van called Renaldo, a midnight half marathon and a lot of puffins.
A Birthday Wish: Iceland in June
“Let’s do it,” I said. The words left my mouth before my anxious brain could object. Inside, though, my stomach quietly tied itself into a knot. Dreaming about a place and committing to it are two very different things.
As we’ve got older, we’ve noticed something about birthdays: somewhere along the way, they often become celebrations planned by someone else. Family time and cake are a lovely tradition, but not always what we’d choose on our own. And in our 40s, we realised time isn’t waiting for us.
My friend’s birthday is on 29 June, so summer seemed like the perfect time to travel to a place with a reputation for extreme weather. Inspired to live our lives to the fullest while we can still run, too, we booked non-stop flights from Vancouver, and suddenly reality hit.
Planning (and Overplanning) Our Campervan Trip
Being type A, I threw myself into researching camper vans, campsites, weather forecasts, insurance options and road conditions. Eventually I found our camper van online, grateful to compare prices in US dollars instead of doing króna maths in my head.
Normally I decline extra insurance without a second thought. I have a spotless driving record. But I’d read stories about Iceland: volcanic sand blasting paint from vehicles, winds strong enough to rip doors from unsuspecting hands. And a few months before our trip was even conceived, someone hit my parked truck and drove off without leaving a note. Sometimes life gives you dents through no fault of your own. So this time, I happily checked the box for zero-risk insurance with two drivers included.
As it turned out, that wasn’t my only surprise.
Meet Renaldo, Our Renault Camper Van
The included shuttle from the airport made it super easy to pick up the van, but standing at the Rent.is desk on arrival, my friend told me she’d left her driving licence at home.
Just like that, I became the designated driver for our entire Icelandic adventure. Thankfully, our little Renault camper van, whom I affectionately named “Renaldo”, became my new trusted friend. He was our bedroom, kitchen, drying room and tiny home on wheels.
As a sailor, I found living in Renaldo strangely familiar: everything had its place, every movement required a little choreography, and clutter multiplied with alarming speed. The biggest difference? On a sailboat, midnight bathroom breaks are considerably more convenient. Thankfully, Iceland’s campsites have great facilities, and the toilets were never too far away.
The Midnight Sun Half Marathon: Running Through Iceland in June
One of my favourite travel traditions is checking whether a running race happens to coincide with wherever I’m headed. The Suzuki Midnight Sun Run in Reykjavík fitted almost perfectly into our travel dates. Our trip had barely begun when rain hammered the van minutes before we were due to walk to the start line at 9 p.m. Only three days into our adventure, we braced ourselves to run 13.1 miles (21.1 km) in rapidly changing weather, under a sky with no intention of going dark.
Somewhere among the winding paved trails, with waterfalls, lakes and endless fields of purple lupins, my legs started negotiating with my brain. I wasn’t entirely convinced I’d finish. Jet lag is no joke, even though the sun popped out a few times to encourage us along the way. When we finally crossed the finish line at 11:30 p.m., exhausted and exhilarated, I laughed as we walked back to the campsite to grab our swimsuits for the pool party next door.
The best part? Our Iceland adventure was only just beginning.
Settling Into Campervan Life
Over the days that followed, we settled into the rhythm of campervan life. We learned that organisation can make or break two people sharing such a tiny space. Blackout eye masks and melatonin gummies became nightly essentials.
Every evening we plugged Renaldo into shore power in a beautiful new location, drying things out with the van’s heater after another day spent soaking in geothermal pools, chasing waterfalls or wandering wherever curiosity pointed us.
Puffins, Horses and Black Sheep
We sat on vibrant green, grassy cliffs watching puffins waddle awkwardly toward the edge before launching gracefully into the wind and landing with astonishing precision among tiny flowers clinging to impossible ledges. Seagulls soared overhead with such effortless joy that I imagined they flew simply because they loved flying.
Every Icelandic horse looked suspiciously like a unicorn whose horn had mastered the art of invisibility.
And then there were the sheep. We especially loved the black sheep, maybe because we’ve always felt a little like them ourselves. As entrepreneurs and artists who have never been good at following the herd, it’s probably no surprise we’re the kind of friends who’d decide to go to Iceland together for two weeks.
Iceland’s Hidden People
I also found myself smiling at Iceland’s hidden people. Whether elves truly exist hardly matters to me; respect certainly does. Every moss-covered lava field seemed to whisper that most places deserve our awe and wonder more than our footprints.
When the Weather Has Its Own Agenda
Of course, not everything went as we’d hoped. The weather had its own agenda, and we adapted to it. Renaldo gave us the safe, warm shelter we needed every time the sky unleashed some new fury.
What Iceland in June Taught Me
As I packed my bag on the last day and got ready to return Renaldo for his next travellers, I realised something had quietly changed within me. The knot I’d carried onto the plane weeks earlier had disappeared somewhere along Iceland’s winding roads. In its place was trust: trust that not everything has to go according to plan, that detours often become the best stories, and that curiosity makes a far better travel companion than fear.
Renaldo is probably taking someone else toward waterfalls, puffins, hot springs and unexpected adventures right now. I hope they discover what I did: that the greatest souvenir isn’t a stuffed puffin or a race medal. It’s coming home with memories that will last forever.
FAQ: Visiting Iceland in June by Campervan
Is June a good time to visit Iceland?
Yes. June brings the longest days of the year, green landscapes, lupins in bloom and puffins nesting on the cliffs. The weather can still change quickly, so pack layers and a waterproof jacket.
Does it get dark in Iceland in June?
Barely. Around midsummer, the sun only dips briefly below the horizon in Reykjavík, and it never gets properly dark. Bring an eye mask if you’re a light sleeper.
What is the Midnight Sun Run?
The Suzuki Midnight Sun Run is an evening race held in Reykjavík in June, with 5 km, 10 km and half-marathon distances. It starts and finishes in Laugardalur, near the Reykjavík campsite, and ends with a pool party at Laugardalslaug.
Plan Your Own Trip to Iceland in June
The Renault Trafic camper van seats and sleeps three, with a kitchen and a heater for chilly nights. Pick it up from Rent.is, just five minutes from Keflavík Airport, with a free 24/7 shuttle.
