Puffin Tours Iceland in VW Campervan

This blog records the experiences of Laurie Beth Clark and Michael Peterson who traveled in Iceland between 20 and 29 July in a 2017 Volkswagen California Camper van which we nicknamed Beethoven (in honor of the band)…

Volkswagen California Camper van

…together with our mascot puffin, Vanessa.

Vanessa the Puffin

Renting a camper van allowed us to come to Iceland without a planned itinerary. In fact, campgrounds in Iceland don’t take reservations. We could not begin to imagine how this would work until the first night of our trip when we discovered that there are no demarcated spots, just parking areas and open fields where everyone fits in as best they can.
Sometimes you have a lot of space…

Camping freedom

…and sometimes it is very close quarters.

Popular campsites in Iceland

On our first day, we learned all about the features of our camper from Sanda.

Sanda our rental agent

The van even had its own free WiFi!
Our favorite part was the popup roof that allows for enough headroom to stand up inside the van…

Relaxing in the Camper Van

…as well as a place to sleep up top.

The bed in the VW California camper

After a stop to collect our luggage at the Reykjavik Lights hotel (we stored all our camping gear in Reykjavik while we traveled in Europe) and another at a supermarket to stock our pantry and refrigerator, we headed west to check off some of the obligatory Golden Circle sites such as Þingvellir (site of the first democratic parliament in 930 AD) where the European and North American tectonic plates are moving away from one another at an alarming 18 millimeters per year…

Öxaráfoss in Þingvellir

…the geothermal field at Geysir (for which all geysers are named)…

The Geyser Geysir

…and our first waterfall at Gullfoss.

Gullfoss waterfall in the Golden Circle

Though we spent our first night at Laugarvatn, our real destination was Gamla Laugin (Secret Lagoon) natural hot springs at Flúðir.

Gamla Laugin - Secret Lagoon

From here, our trip joins and departs from a classic ring road tour. The picture below is the standard tour marked clockwise.

The Ring road clocikwise

Ours is counter-clockwise and looks more like this.

The Ring road counter-clockwise

On our second day, we took short hikes to several more waterfalls (Seljalandsfoss and Gljúfrabúi) including one we think might be featured in an art work by our colleague Stephen Hilyard.

Around Seljalandsfoss  

Seljalands waterfall

This was before we realized that there are so many spectacular waterfalls in Iceland that we would never be able to complete the tour if we stopped for all of them. Often from the car it was possible to see dozens at a time.

Our Camper van by a fall

After stocking up in Vík (which we liked less than we expected based on tour book and tourist accounts), we opted to spend our second night in the small town of Kirkjubæjarklaustur, stopping enroute for our first puffin encounter at Dyrhólaey, (also the first of several locations at which we failed to see seals).

Puffins by Dýrhólaey

In the morning, we made a bee line for Skaftafell in Vatnajökull National Park with hiking as our priority. The glacier views during our hike there counts of one of the top experiences of the trip.

Skaftafell in Vatnajökull National Park

Almost as high on our list was the boat ride on the glacial lagoon of Fjallsárlón.

the glacial lagoon of Fjallsárlón

Laurie Beth used the lake shore of Jökulsárlón as the setting for her Iceland mask walk. (Look for a tiny figure in the lower right below).

Shores of Jökulsárlón

Then we had a long afternoon in the town of Höfn, where we ate their famous humar (Icelandic lobster or langostine) at Humarhöfnin…

Humarhöfnin

…within view of the boat that catches them…

Humarhöfnin restaurant

Lazy days in Iceland…and then bathed in the city swimming pool Sundlaug Hafnar.
Laurie Beth left behind her prescription goggles and swim radio at this community center and did not realized until our next hot spring experience. With the help of our Madison-based Icelandic friend Salvör Jónsdóttir we were able to reclaim them and they are now en route to the US.

Coming to Iceland, what Laurie Beth was most looking forward to was the chance to spend a lot of time in hot water. This can be done at spas (mostly located at the sites of natural hot springs) and in public swimming pools (every community has one). Though this post contains three photos of “natural” pools, we did not take our camera into any of the community pools visited. In lieu, we offer this photo of a roadside hot water shower near Mývatn. We think it’s an art work but we’re not really sure.

roadside hot water shower

We camped that night near Stokksnes at the Viking Café where we made our second (of three) failed attempts to see seals. A two-hour hike took us through some spectacular scenery but the seals were apparently out to sea.

Camping near Stokksnes

The wind here was so strong that we slept in the lower part of camper van and did not raise the roof. Instead, the next morning we drove through the tunnel…

Tunnel in Iceland

…and into a different weather system (our first sunny day!) before making breakfast.

Roadside lunch

Roadside luncheon

It was important to us to visit Seyðisfjörður…

Driving to Seyðisfjörður

…where we’ve twice applied for (and been rejected by) the Arts residency program at Skaftfell Center for Visual Art.

Downtown Seyðisfjörður

While in this community, we visited the charming Technical Museum of East Iceland…

Technical Museum of East Iceland

…and ate sashimi from local fishes (salmon, raw and smoked arctic char, deep sea snapper, plaice, mackerel, sweet shrimp, eel) at Norð Austur – Sushi & Bar.

Norð Austur – Sushi & Bar

We returned to our campground to find that tents had closed in all around us, so early the next morning we opted again for breakfast on the road, which actually allowed us to climb out of the fog and into the sunshine again.

Sunny day in East Iceland

Then we drove directly to Borgarfjörður Eystri to see lots more puffins!

Puffin in Borgarfjörður Eystri Puffins in East Iceland Puffins in Borgarfjörður Eystri

Stopping only for the waterfalls at Dettifoss and Selfoss (which we nicknamed Dentalfloss and Selfiefloss)…

Dettifoss waterfallDettifoss fall

…we took dirt roads to the “primitive” campground at Verstudalur (within the northern unit of Vatnajökull National Park), which was by far our favorite of the trip.

campground at Verstudalur

Our hike there, among these unusual lava formations, was excellent…

Lava formations

…as was the the one we took the following morning in Ásbyrgi.

Morning in Ásbyrgi

Enroute to Húsavík, where we’d booked a whale watching tour, we stopped to give Michael a chance to swim in the Arctic Ocean (which means he has now swum in every ocean except the Southern Ocean which surrounds Antarctica).

Swimming in the North Atlantic

Whale watching (we took a boat with North Sailing) was outstanding. Sunny clear weather (with very rough seas which luckily does not bother either of us) and more than fifty (humpback) whales in the three hours we were out. Whales are challenging to photograph but here’s a “goodbye tail” for you.

Whales of Húsavík

That night, we were able to reach another stunning campground, this one on the lake in Mývatn. The reason one comes to this area is for the geothermal activity and we were not disappointed by the landscape…

Hverir area North Iceland

…or by the Nature Baths.

Nature baths north Iceland Mývatn baths

A final waterfall at Goðafoss…

Godafoss waterfall

…before going on to spend the night in Akureyri, Iceland’s second largest city (18,000), where oddly our campground proved to be one of the most private of our trip.

VW Camper Van

In Akureyri, we visited the Botanical Gardens…

Akureyri Botanical Gardens

…and the Art Museum where we saw a show of contemporary art from the region of North Iceland.

Akureyri Art Museum

The most memorable and provocative work in the show was Hatikvah by Snorri Ásmundsson. If you have a chance to click on the title link and watch the embedded video, we’d be very curious to hear your thoughts.

Hatikvah by Snorri Ásmundsson

Leaving Akureyri, we experienced a series of small disappointments in our detours off Route 1. First, we arrived at the Iceland Seal Center in Hvammstangi (for our third and final attempt to see seals). There we learned that the seal beaches were many miles further on (time we could no longer afford) and that, in any case, the seas were too rough that day to make sightings likely.
Then we went on to Deildartunguhver (“Europe’s most powerful hot spring”) where we found the Krauma spa not yet open for business. Poor fact checking on the part of Lonely Planet which, even in its online listing, describes the facility as already open!

Deildartunguhver welcome house

The upshot was that we decided to drive another two hours to camp at Grindavík which would allow us to end our trip with a morning visit to the Blue Lagoon (which had not been in our original plan). I really cannot think of anything better to do before getting onto (or for that matter off of) a transatlantic flight then to spend three hours soaking in hot water.

The Blue Lagoon hot baths

When she travels, Laurie Beth likes to read contemporary fiction by local authors so, while in Iceland she read several Icelandic novels. The one she most recommends is The Greenhouse by Auður Ava Ólafsdóttir (an Icelandic story at it’s core even though much of it takes place abroad), but she also read Lovestar by Andri Snaer Magnason, The Hitman’s Guide to Housecleaning by Hallgrimur Helgason, Reyjavik Nights by Arnaldur Indridason and Angels of the Universe by Einar Már Guðmundsson.
We haven’t said much yet about our meals on the trip.

Vanessa enjoying blueberries

We cooked out using two camping burners.

Camper kitchenCamper BBQ

After a month of rich Italian food, we were in the mood for healthy, low fat foods. Though limited in our facilities, appetites, and ingredients, we still cooked delicious meals that included a curried yellow pea soup with smoked lamb, fried rice with lamb bacon, a Spanish-style tortilla…

Tortilla in Iceland

…and this excellent smoked salmon sandwich made with all Icelandic ingredients. The cucumbers are grown in greenhouses using geothermal heat!

Roadside food

During all our time in rural Iceland, we could not figure out where to buy fresh fish. There was plenty available in restaurants but none in the supermarket and no (visible to us) fish stores. When we asked, people told us you get fish directly from people who catch fish. It was not until our last day as we passed through Blönduós (which Lonely Planet describes as an “underwhelming service town”) that we drove by this sign…

Fishmonger in Iceland

…screeched to a halt and found this unlikely looking door…

Fish store in Blöndós

…inside which there was actually a well-stocked fish counter where we bought cod for our final meal.

Icelandic Cod

We’ve not raved enough about the spectacular and unending beauty of Iceland (which we are now revisiting on Netflix through the television series Trapped) but we hope that we’ve communicated it sufficiently through some of our pictures.
Part of what’s amazing about Iceland is the way that so much spectacular landscape is visible from the road. One does not even need to leave the highway to see many spectacular sights—glaciers, waterfalls, geysers—though of course it gets better if one does.

Road adventure on the Ring road

In all, a near perfect trip where the only things that went wrong were lost goggles, a closed hot spring, and a failure to find seals. Our biggest regret is that we did not have the nerve to attempt one of the famed four-wheel drive roads.
Vanessa has no regrets!

Vanessa the traveling Puffin

The Amazing glacial lake Icebergs in the lagoon

The colors of the icebergs Puffins of Iceland

A camping dream Dimmuborgir by Lake Mývatn

R&R in the Camper van Our lovely VW Camper

Campsite in Iceland On the Ring road

 

Read more: A Troll in Iceland

 

Happy Camping!  #CamperStories

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