Vanlife : Driving Iceland’s Ring Road (22 Years Later)
by Dianne and Millie
There are birthdays… and then there are milestone birthdays.
For my 30th, my mum and I decided cake and candles weren’t quite going to cut it. Instead, we packed our layers (and an arguably unnecessary amount of snacks) and headed off on what can only be described as an epic vanlife adventure around Iceland.
But here’s the twist—this wasn’t our first time.
We were actually coming back after 22 years, when I was just 8 years old. Safe to say, a lot had changed. Iceland is now far more accessible than it once was, with better infrastructure, more facilities… and a few more people chasing the same dramatic landscapes. Still, it was pretty special to revisit so many places, laugh about what we remembered (and misremembered), and reflect on how much both the country, and we, had changed.
We’re Overplanners
Before booking anything, we went deep into research mode comparing vans, reading reviews, and delving into the depths of reddit Iceland travel pages. Eventually, we landed on Rent.is, which ticked all our boxes: the right price point, automatic transmission (non-negotiable), plenty of storage, and a comfortable setup.
But what really convinced us were the consistently glowing reviews from other travellers. It turned out that they weren’t exaggerating.
From answering our (many) email questions beforehand, to an incredibly smooth pickup process at the airport, everything felt easy. We were shown exactly how everything worked and—cherry on top—we were greeted with steaming cups of coffee on arrival. After our economy flight, that felt like five-star treatment.
Also, a win for fellow planners: we were able to reserve the van five months in advance, without paying until the week of the trip. It was stress-free planning at its finest.
Our Home on Wheels
Before we get into the adventure itself, let’s talk about the real hero of the trip—our van.
We went with a Renault Trafic 3, which we fondly named “Easyboy” after his namesake “EZ” license plate.
Staying Warm
We’d been slightly concerned about freezing at night so at our first campsite we opted to plug into campsite electricity to use the ceramic heater. It was easy and good for peace of mind but we quickly realised we didn’t need to.
The built-in 12v battery heater kept us perfectly warm all night long and easily recharged while we drove during the day. Skipping electric hookups saved us a about £6 per day which was a nice bonus.
Sleeping Setup
Because the van can sleep three, and there was just the two of us, there was plenty of space for sleeping. Having done many RV trips we can confidently say that the mattress was one of the best we’ve ever had. The sleeping bags were brand new and seriously warm, so we didn’t need to use the hot water bottles which we had brought as a backup.
Storage
We packed… generously.
But with clever storage in the back “garage” and under-bench space, everything fit comfortably. Rent.is even let us leave the camping table and chairs behind to maximise room, which made a huge difference.
Two carry-ons, two backpacks, a large duffle – no problem.
Cooking
The van came with a compact butane stove, and we were given an extra can that lasted the entire trip.
We mixed things up between cooking at the van and using the campsite kitchens which also turned out to be great social hubs. There’s something about swapping stories with other travellers while cooking dinner that just adds to the whole experience.
(Top tip: apps like Park4Night are brilliant for finding campsites and it allows you to filter based on facilities like kitchens, showers etc.)
Driving Experience
If you’re worried about driving a campervan don’t be.
The van was surprisingly easy to handle, and Iceland’s main roads (especially Route 1) are well maintained. Parking areas are spacious, and everything felt designed with road-trippers in mind. The hardest thing was keeping our eyes on the road ahead and not at the scenery flying by.
The Adventure: Four Regions, Endless Highlights
In Icelandic lore, the island is often thought of as being divided into four regions: the land of the giants, dragons, eagles, and bulls.
As we made our way around the ring road, watching the landscapes shift almost hourly, it became surprisingly easy to imagine those mythical creatures roaming freely. Towering cliffs, volcanic plains, misty valleys, each region had its own personality, its own rhythm, and its own “how is this even real?” moments. That’s the magic of Iceland; it never really settles into one thing.
South: Land of the Giants
Everyone says the south coast is spectacular, and they’re absolutely right.
If you’re short on time in Iceland, this is the place to be. Waterfalls appear so frequently that the novelty almost wears off… almost. Now that I’m 22 years older and a solid few inches taller, the sheer height and power of the falls really hasn’t changed in their ability to take my breath away.
But what really made this stretch fun were the random, slightly bizarre stops along the way, like the famous “bra fence,” where passing travellers leave behind a token for good luck. Iceland definitely doesn’t take itself too seriously, and we loved that.
One morning, after a short walk from our campsite, we stumbled across a seriously hot natural spring – hot enough to boil eggs for breakfast. Not something we had on the itinerary, but very much a highlight.
Another standout was Dyrhólaey. We parked at the lower viewpoint first, taking in sweeping views over the black sands of Reynisfjara, before heading up to the higher viewpoint. The climb was bracing (read: windy), but completely worth it.
East: Land of the Dragons
The east felt wild in a different way. It was rugged, dramatic, and a little quieter.
Driving along those jagged sea cliffs, it wasn’t hard to imagine dragons gliding overhead, breathing fire and then disappearing into the mist.
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon was one of those places that truly stops you in your tracks. Massive icebergs floated silently through the water, their colours shifting between bright blue, white, and soft grey. Every now and then, you’d hear a deep crack or shift like the landscape itself was breathing. And then, seals. Actual seals, popping up around the lagoon and cruising in, cool as can be, on the rising tide.
Wildlife didn’t stop there either, as the next day we spotted reindeer grazing in the distance, causing us to immediately slam the brakes to catch a glimpse of them. That night at campground Fjalladyrd/Mödrudalur we even had a (very friendly, very curious) domesticated reindeer visit us in our campervan, snuffling at our door no doubt trying to beg for attention which we were more than happy to oblige.
Naturally, we made time to enjoy the geothermal side of Iceland too. At Vök Baths, we soaked in floating hot spring pools and feeling brave took a cold plunge into the lake. A very quick plunge, but still. Viking energy unlocked.
North: Land of the Eagles
By the time we reached the north, we’d fully settled into vanlife mode of easy mornings, slower days, and a much more relaxed pace.
The geothermal area at Hverir felt like stepping onto another planet. Bubbling mud pools, steaming vents, bright orange earth. It was intense in the best way. We half expected to see a spaceship land while we were there.
Nearby, the Mývatn region delivered again with its lava formations, especially at Dimmuborgir, where towering rock structures twist and rise in unexpected shapes. We even stumbled across what looked like a music video shoot happening right there among the rocks. It was very surreal, and very on brand for Iceland.
Hot springs remained a priority (obviously), and while Forest Lagoon was a lovely stop, one of our favourite moments happened back at our campsite. At Sæberg, there’s a simple geothermal hot tub overlooking the bay and while soaking, we could watch seals playing in the water below. Not a bad way to end the day.
West: Land of the Bulls
We’ll admit it: we weren’t expecting Þingvellir National Park to impress us quite as much as it did. It’s one of the more popular spots on the Golden Circle, and after some quieter stretches of Iceland, we thought it might feel a bit touristy. But the scale and atmosphere completely won us over.
Camper tip: head to parking area P3 near Öxarárfoss—it’s free and a great starting point for exploring.
The real highlight of the west had to be Reykjadalur Valley. After what can only be described as a character-building hike (complete with horizontal sleet to the face), we reached a steaming river running through a stunning valley. Slipping into that naturally hot water, surrounded by mountains, felt like absolute heaven.
And finally, the Blue Lagoon. Even if you don’t go for the full spa experience, it’s worth visiting. There’s a free walking trail from the main car park where you can see the milky blue water up close, along with the contrast of fresh, dark lava fields and the impressive engineering that keeps everything running. It’s a little bit futuristic, a little bit otherworldly, and a very fitting way to round off the adventure.
10 days was the perfect amount of time to do the ring road. We savoured some slower mornings, cooking pancakes from scratch while overlooking a lake, and had some hair-raising moments just in awe of nature. Every corner gave us something new to look at and wonder over, the whole time with “Easyboy” at our side. Iceland, you are epic.
Iceland Travel Tips and our Van Life Hacks:
We wanted to pull together a few tips and tricks that genuinely made our trip easier. We could probably write a whole separate post on this, but here’s the highlight reel:
- Payments: Apple Pay worked everywhere—from petrol stations to tiny shops. We used Revolut to avoid extra foreign transaction fees.
- Connectivity: We had an eSIM which was enough for maps and basic planning. Some campsites had free wifi, but signal could be spotty or was only accessible in the main building, so it was great to have a reliable backup for when we were curled up in the van at night or when we were out on the road. Rent.is also offers wifi packages if you are planning to do heavier surfing.
- Offline Maps: Download Iceland on Google Maps before you leave home so you are not burning through data as you drive.
- Apps to Get: Parka is used for paid parking areas and even some campsites. Get this ahead of time so that you don’t encounter difficulties connecting your banking information when on an international data service.
- Fuel Strategy: The age-old tip of topping up petrol little and often is true. One day we drove nearly all day before passing a petrol station!
- Food Shopping: Bonus, Kronan and Costco are popular budget options, but we loved Netto and also tried to support local farmers where we could by stopping at some roadside veg stalls and a few bakeries. You must try the sticky, slightly sweet hverabraud which is baked underground using geothermal heat.
- Don’t buy: bottled water. The tap water is crystal clear thanks to the natural filtration of the volcanic rock. Also don’t bother to buy salt or oil as there’s always loads of extras leftover in most campsite kitchens.
- Cooking Hack: If you’re looking to save a bit of cash, definitely make use of the cooking kit in the rental van. We brought some lightweight foods like freeze-dried fruits, nuts, noodles and soup mixes. Of course everything is available in the grocery stores, but we didn’t want to spend precious time shopping when we could be exploring. Try making double portions so that you can meal prep for the next day to save time and washing up.
- Coffee = Essential: Packing a travel mug is non-negotiable for long drives.
- Entertainment: Build and download an epic road trip playlist! The van has a radio but out in some of the more rural areas we found there’s no service.
The Takeaway: Would We Do It Again?
Without a doubt.
This trip felt like a perfect mix of nostalgia, adventure, and discovery. It gave us the chance to revisit somewhere meaningful but in a completely new way.
And the best part? We barely scratched the surface as we didn’t make it to the Westfjords or the Highlands this time so we’re already planning our return. Next time, we’ve got our eyes on the Toyota Hilux 4×4 Camper which can hit those gravel roads.
One thing’s for sure: we won’t be waiting another 22 years for our next Iceland adventure.
